Markus Madeja nearbynbsp;the bar.
Markus Madeja and
his Vietnamese friends in Highway 4.
Liquors made in Phu Loc Hamlet, the native
place of Son’s wife.
| Because of his love for Vietnam and understanding of the
country, Markus Madeja has integrated with the people and lifestyle on the
country so well that many say he even looks
Vietnamese.
Although Son (Markus’s Vietnamese name), a Swiss, owns a
number of bars in Hanoi our interview didn’t start with a question about
liquor. We talked about his many passions for the country. Most
importantly is his wife, Vu Thi Thoa, a Vietnamese woman born in a village
in the Northern Delta. Next he lists (not necessarily in this order) the
Vietnamese land and its people, language, Vietnamese culture and
liquor.
His command of the language is
so good, often Son is asked if either of his parents are Vietnamese. If a
contest is held for foreigners speaking Vietnamese Son will most likely
rank very high. He speaks as a Vietnamese citizen does, from his accent to
his gestures and in particular his use of slang and dialects.
We first met Son six years ago
when he worked at The Voice of Vietnam radio station, which is also the
place where he met his wife. We were surprise to find a truly “Vietnamese
Westerner” and today his Vietnamese character is even stronger.
Physically, Son’s slender shape
stands out.nbsp; Only he and his wife Vu Thi Thoa know how this special
relationship developed in a way that is truly love, as sure as “eggs are
eggs”.nbsp; “There isn’t any reason I shouldn’t spend the rest of my life
in Vietnam,” Son told us.
Married and the father of one
child, Son owns two bars in Hanoi named Xa Lo 4 (Highway 4). He
plans to expand and open a chain of Highway 4 around Vietnam, specializing
in liquors with a distinctive Vietnamese identity, with such names as “Son
Tinh” (Mountain Genie), produced at his wife’s native land (Phuc Loc
Hamlet, Cam Vu Village, Cam Giang District, Hai Duong Province) - very
well known for its production of traditional
vodka.nbsp;nbsp;nbsp; All this started from the small scheme of
a young newcomer to this land a few years ago.
In 1993, Son was 24 and he was
resolved to learn Vietnamese so that he could travel to Vietnam with a
view to studying its people and culture. “A year in Vietnam was enough to
prompt me to return to this land and make preparations for longer term
schemes. Its potentials for tourism are immense,” Son recalled. A few
months later, Son returned to Vietnam and set up the representative office
of his travel agency, with its headquarters based in Switzerland. He spent
half of his time in Vietnam, and the other half in his homeland to
complete his study at the University of Switzerland. In 1996-1997, he
conducted a study on the Thai ethnic group in Mai Chau (Hoa Binh Province)
and worked for UN Environmental Protection Project and many other projects
on tourism. “Working for projects is quite interesting but sometimes you
cannot afford sufficient conditions to realize your own ideas.” And so Son
chose to seek his own way. “Traditional Vietnamese vodkas are a marvel. I
have enjoyed quite a few of them and found I could do business in this
direction.” On December 15, 2000, on an ancient street in the heart of
Hanoi,nbsp; “Xa Lo 4” (Highway 4) Bar opened. He blew a new life
into the not-so-large space of the ancient 3-storey building, with
typically Vietnamese decorations: the liquors and colours of the plains
and the highlands of Vietnam with palm-leaf roofs, bamboo tables, cushions
made from the ethnic brocades… Dozens of types of liquors may be found
there: Sa Pa, Tao Meo, San Lung… Many people go there not only because its
name sounds strange and eccentric but because they want to enjoy the
flavours of the rich Vietnamese delicacies and liquors as well. From time
to time, a few artist painters, whom he knows, decorated the walls of his
pub by hanging their works to entertain the diners.
“Highway 4 is the name
of the national road that links the provinces of Cao Bang and Lang Son to
Mui Ngoc (Quang Ninh Provinces) at the northern border. And I’ve thus
brought the flavour of those provinces to the capital to entertain the
Hanoians,” Son confided and that’s the reason why he calls his pubs this
name. More and more guests are frequenting “Highway 4” and about
one-third of them are foreigners. Also for this reason, Son is expanding
his business. In late 2003, at a culinary street of Hanoi - Mai Hac De
Street - another “Highway 4 ” Pub went into operation, larger but
still very “Highway 4”, very Vietnamese at that.
Story:nbsp; Vuong
Mo |