Reviving the Art of Do Paper in Hanoi
Amid the hustle and bustle of modern Hanoi, a quiet cultural space in Yen Thai Village, once famous for its traditional do paper, has come back to life. Located in Tay Ho Ward, this unique venue introduces visitors to the age-old craft of do paper making and offers a rare glimpse into Hanoi’s cultural heritage.
Nestled beside the scenic West Lake, Yen Thai was long known as the cradle of Citadel of Thang Long (Hanoi). For generations, the rhythmic pounding of bark and the gentle sound of water running through bamboo screens filled the air, weaving into the daily life of local families. By the early 2000s, the do paper making in the Imperial decline of paper cooperatives and the rise of modern materials pushed the craft into near extinction. The village’s aging artisans gradually put down their tools, and the sounds of the old paper sounds faded into silence.
In 2024, a new chapter began. At 189 Trich Sai Street, the People’s Committee of Buoi Ward (present-day Tay Ho Ward) opened a cultural tourism and traditional craft promotion place for do paper making. More than a showcase, this space serves as a “living museum” where the past and present meet, and where visitors can explore, observe, and even take part in the papermaking process guided by local artisans.
At the entrance, a striking red sign welcomes visitors with an introduction to the history of do paper and the legacy of Buoi Village. Inside, a thoughtfully curated display walks guests through every stage of the traditional papermaking process: from the do tree (Rhamnoneuron balansae) itself to the careful selection of bark, pounding, cooking with natural adhesives made from mo plants (Clerodendrum fragrans), and the final steps of forming, pressing, and drying the paper. The exhibition comes alive with life-size figures, images, and tools, giving viewers a vivid sense of the intricate craftsmanship behind each sheet of paper.
In addition to showcasing traditional products, the space also features do paper goods made in other parts of Vietnam, such as Da Bac (Phu Tho) and Bac Ninh. These come in a variety of natural colors, dyed with plant-based ingredients. Beyond calligraphy and painting, do paper is now used to make notebooks, fans, jewelry, and even handwritten letters, reviving a tradition nearly lost in the digital age.
Calligrapher and artist Nguyen Duy Duc said: “Recreating the space here is not just about preserving an old trade, it is about reviving a piece of Hanoi’s cultural memory. I come here because of my passion for calligraphy. Do paper is an irreplaceable material in the creative journey”.
The space offers more than just displays. Visitors can experience key steps in the papermaking process, such as pounding bark, grinding hemp, or forming sheets of paper, under the guidance of artisans from Zo Project, a social enterprise. Soft bundles of fiber are pounded with wooden mallets, mixed with sticky resin, and filtered through bamboo frames to create delicate yet durable sheets of hand-crafted paper. The process is slow, and deeply satisfying to watch and even more memorable to try.
The venue also hosts regular cultural education programs for young people, including calligraphy classes, art camps, and do paper exhibitions. These activities help nurture an appreciation for heritage among the next generation.
Nguyen Cam Ly, a Vietnamese student studying in Canada, shared her experience, “I’ve taken calligraphy lessons here from beginner to advanced levels. Do paper is not easy to write on, but once you master it, it feels like you’re touching the soul of the Vietnamese script. Each session deepens my love for our culture”.
In a fast-paced world, the do paper “museum” on Trich Sai Street offers a meaningful retreat, a place to reconnect with one’s roots and rediscover the quiet beauty of tradition in every delicate sheet of handmade paper.
Story: Ngan Ha Photos: Khanh Long/VNP & Files Translated by Nguyen Tuoi