Living Heritage in the Heart of Hanoi

The holy palanquins are gathered in the communal house courtyard for a ritual before the procession begins. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

Ke Moc is the folk name for Nhan Muc, a residential area that appeared early in the history of Thang Long. Through changes in administrative and residential boundaries, Nhan Muc was eventually divided into various village units. Among these, Nhan Muc Mon comprises five villages: Giap Nhat, Quan Nhan, Chinh Kinh, Cu Loc, and Phung Khoang - collectively known as the "Five Moc Villages". This community remains closely knit through geography, history, and shared cultural practices, creating a distinctive rural cultural place within Hanoi's urban landscape today.

At the center of the spiritual life of the five Moc villages is the worship of Thanh Hoang (Tutelary God). Each village maintains its own communal house - a traditional cultural institution dedicated to its respective patron deity. These Tutelary Gods are not only figures who rendered great service to the villages and the nation but also symbols of morality, faith, and divine protection for the community.

The procession reenacts the traditional spiritual life of the five Moc villages. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

The procession moves slowly and solemnly through the streets of the Nhan Muc area. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

Built upon this belief, the Five Moc Villages Festival has been maintained through generations as a collective cultural activity for the entire Ke Moc region. Held from the 10th to the 12th of the second lunar month, the festival features processions of the village saints and tutelary gods to welcome spring, admire the landscapes of the five villages, and pray for national peace and prosperity.

The palanquin procession creates a vibrant cultural highlight on city streets. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

Procession members coordinate seamlessly to maneuver the palanquins. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

 

Villagers dressed in traditional ao tu than (four-paneled dresses) and non quai thao (flat palm hats) provide a distinct cultural highlight to the Moc Village Festival. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

Unlike separate village festivals, the Five Moc Villages Festival is "inter-village" in nature, deeply reflecting the spirit of community cohesion. According to ancient customs, the villages take turns hosting the festival in a rotating cycle. During the event, procession rituals and ceremonies are conducted with great dignity, symbolizing the gods’ journey through Ke Moc while carrying the people's aspirations for peace, bumper crops, and community harmony.

The urban landscape becomes an integral part of the traditional festival space. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

The palanquin procession creates a vibrant cultural highlight on city streets. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

Palanquin bearers exert themselves to maintain balance as the holy palanquin spins during the procession. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

 

The festival space is intrinsically linked to the system of communal houses, including the Phung Khoang, Quan Nhan, Cu Chinh, and Giap Nhat communal houses. Each site is a convergence of history, architecture, and faith, contributing to the unique cultural map of the Nhan Muc region. Communal houses’ participation in a single festival not only highlights the bond between the villages but also reflects a community mindset that transcends closed village boundaries - a progressive trait in traditional cultural structures.

The procession advances toward the communal house—a pivotal destination in the festival. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

Carrying the holy palanquin up the steep steps into the communal house requires skillful coordination to maintain balance while upholding the ritual's solemnity. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

The holy palanquin halts in the communal house courtyard for welcoming ceremonies. Photo: Cong Dat/VNP

Besides the sacred rituals, the Five Moc Villages Festival is an occasion for folk cultural activities, folk games, and performances imbued with local identity. These activities enrich the people’s spiritual life while reflecting the aesthetic values, ethics, and lifestyle handed down through many generations of Ke Moc residents./.

• By Cong Dat/VNP
• Translated by Hong Hanh