A Taste from Cua Lo Sea
Simply seasoned and grilled over charcoal, Cua Lo fish captivates diners with the natural sweetness of fresh fish and a distinctive smoky aroma.
From freshly caught fish to glowing charcoal grills at dawn, the dish carries the briny flavors of Nghe An’s coast, reflecting the rhythms of life in the central region’s fishing communities.
Long before modern preservation methods were widely available, local people turned to charcoal grilling to extend the shelf life of freshly caught fish while preserving its natural flavor. Over time, this practical method of food preservation became a distinctive part of Cua Lo’s culinary heritage.
A good grilled fish requires care from the selection of the catch to controlling the fire. The fish must be freshly caught, with clear eyes and firm flesh. Depending on the season, different fish are grilled, from sardines, scad and cobia to tuna and Spanish mackerel.
Hardly seasoned, the fish is simply rinsed in lightly salted water to remove the fishy smell while preserving its natural briny flavor. The charcoal must be hot and even without producing smoke. The fish must be repeatedly turned over the glowing coal till it is about 80% cooked. The skin will become lightly charred, taking on the rich aroma of charcoal, while the flesh remains tender, sweet, oily and naturally flavorful.
This partial-grilling method makes it easier to preserve and transport the fish on longer journeys. Grilled smaller fish, such as sardines and scad, are often served hot, wrapped in rice paper or thin rice crepes and dipped in garlic-and-chili fish sauce. Grilled Spanish mackerel can be used to cook homestyle dishes, from crispy fried fish with dill fish sauce to clay-pot braises with pepper, green peppercorns, galangal and lemongrass.
Every morning, the glowing charcoal grills in Cua Lo not only provide a livelihood for locals but also help preserve the culinary heritage of Viet nam’s sundrenched, windswept central coast.
Mackerel is grilled over glowing charcoal, filling the air with a tempting aroma. Photo: Tat Son/VNP
Story: Thanh Giang - Photos: Tat Son/VNP









