A Secret Base in Ho Chi Minh City

A Secret Base in Ho Chi Minh City

Behind the unassuming facade of a café is a site that was once a secret base for the Saigon Rangers. It is now a fascinating place for those wishing to explore Ho Chi Minh City's history.
The upstairs balcony is where the site manager and visitors chat over coffee to explore the history of the Saigon Rangers. Photo: Nguyen Luan/VNP

Downtown Ho Chi Minh City on Dang Dung Street stands a house that retains the understated charm of old Saigon. From the outside, it is nothing more than a cozy coffee shop, with a rustic wooden sign, simple furnishings and the inviting aroma of traditional Vietnamese drip coffee. Yet, behind this tranquil setting lies a remarkable historical site - a secret operational base of the Saigon Rangers during the war.

The site manager places the flag of the National Liberation Front of South Vietnam on the balcony of the house. Photo: Nguyen Luan/VNP
 

Today, the site is known as the Saigon Rangers Café. More than just a place to enjoy a cup of coffee, it is a living museum that preserves an important chapter of the city's wartime history. Carefully preserved artifacts, original architectural features and hidden passageways offer visitors a rare glimpse into the covert operations of the Saigon Rangers.

A morning at the café unfolds to the familiar rhythm of the city. The slow drip of Vietnamese coffee from traditional metal filters, the comforting aroma of com tam (broken rice) wafting from the kitchen and chats between locals and visitors create a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

It is hard to imagine that beneath the floorboards and behind the weathered walls once were hidden chambers used to store weapons, documents and communication equipment for the Saigon Rangers' operations.

The site manager shows visitors the “Family Register” booklet and a collection of archival documents dating back to 1968. Photo: Nguyen Luan/VNP
The ground-floor has been carefully preserved, featuring patterned tile flooring, vintage sofas and walls displaying wartime memorabilia. Photo: Nguyen Luan/VNP
The site manager explains how the secret bunker operated and introduces wartime artifacts to visitors. Photo: Nguyen Luan/VNP

Before 1975, the site was the Do Phu - Korean broken rice restaurant, a cover for activities of the Saigon Rangers. What leaves the strongest impression is the secret bunker, preserved almost exactly as it was during the war. Its entrance was ingeniously concealed beneath an ancestral altar. The cramped underground space, wooden ammunition crates and original artifacts vividly demonstrate the ingenuity and courage of the Saigon Rangers as they carried out missions under constant danger.

A wall features black-and-white archival photographs of Saigon Rangers and wartime combat equipment. Photo: Nguyen Luan/VNP
 

Unlike a traditional museum, history here feels immediate. Visitors can climb the wooden staircase and explore rooms filled with typewriters, furniture, household items and other artifacts once used in the Saigon Rangers' operations. This authentic setting creates a powerful connection between past and present, making the café a truly distinctive historical destination.

An increasing number of young Vietnamese are visiting the café to learn more about the history of the city they call home. For international visitors, the site offers a unique and deeply personal perspective on Vietnam's past, revealing how ordinary places and everyday life became part of an extraordinary story of resilience and resistance.

The upstairs balcony is where the site manager and visitors chat over coffee to explore the history of the Saigon Rangers. Photo: Nguyen Luan/VNP

Ho Chi Minh City's development is reflected not only in its modern infrastructure but also in the way it preserves its history. Amid the fast pace of urban life, the modest house on Dang Dung Street quietly bears witness to a remarkable chapter of history. Every cup of coffee here offers more than a taste of old Saigon, but a step into the past to learn about the courage, sacrifice and resilience that have shaped the city .

 

  • By Nguyen Luan/VNP

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