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 Lotus buds are picked before dawn at Tay Ho
lotus pond.
 Ngo Thi Trinh, owner of Ninh Huong lotus scented tea is separating the tea and lotus stamina before the drying process.
 Fresh lotus stamina are separated, sieved
and wrapped in lotus leaves before being used to
scent the tea.
 Tea artisan Truong Xuan (second from left)
introducing the lotus
scented tea.
| The lotus flower fragrance is regarded as the pure
quintessence of heaven and earth. Lotus scented tea was once a special
product reserved only for members of the royal family, mandarins and the
wealthy. In one of his writings, Hai Thuong Lan Ong Le Huu Trac, a
well-known Vietnamese scholar and physician in the 18th century, described the lotus plant as
follows:
“Though it
grows in mud, the lotus plant is never affected by the bad smell arising
from the mud. Instead, it absorbs the fresh and pure air from nature that
makes its stem, flowers and leaves valuable herbal medicines”.
Ngo Thi
Trinh, a woman who owns a lotus scented tea shop named “Ninh Huong” at 22
Hang Dieu Street in Hanoi, is widely known to both Vietnamese and foreign
tea lovers. Trinh has processed lotus tea for quite a while and her skill
in this field is unparalleled. Talking with her about how she makes
scented tea, one realizes the reason why her product is in so much demand
by her devoted customers.
Normally,
one kilogram of dry tea will be scented with 1.4 kilograms of lotus stamen
collected from about 1,400 lotus flowers. Fresh lotus flowers must be used
right after they are cut from the lake to preserve the stamina fragrance.
Tea is arranged in layers in a tightly covered glazed terracotta jar with
a layer of lotus stamina in between each layer of tea. The mixture is kept
in the jar for two days and then set out to dry for one day.
The dried
lotus stamen is then separated from the tea using a sieve and the whole
process using fresh lotus stamen is repeated. It takes eight sequences of
scenting and drying the tea before the tea can absorb fully the lotus
scent.
When
scenting tea with lotus stamen, the mixture must be kept compressed inside
the jar so that the fragrance cannot escape. If there is the aroma of
lotus in the processing room, this indicates the process is not well done
and the tea will not be perfect. Trinh has to spend almost one month to
get a batch of tasty lotus scented tea.
 The family of
Tien and Loan is the biggest lotus stamina supplier in
Hanoi.
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Preparing
the lotus tea to enjoy its fine qualities is an art. Truong Xuan, an
artisan in tea making, describes the customary method he uses when
preparing this superior refreshment. A bronze teapot is heated up in the
fireplace and because they hold heat for a long time, glazed terracotta
teacups are prepared. Truong Xuan prefers to use cups that are
either white or pink inside to highlight the amber colour of the tea.
Before combining the water and tea, both the teapot and cups are drenched
with hot water followed by placing the teapot in a large bowl. After
merging hot water with the tea he allows the mixture to steep for five
minute before serving the tea in the terracotta cups.
Mr. Xuan
confides that the first cup is not always the best tasting. It is
the second or third serving that leaves a taste of sweetness and fragrance
in the drinker’s mouth. A good tea can be served several times until it
gets too thin.
A sip of
lotus tea will also help reduce quickly the heat and tiredness of a
scorching summer day.
Story by Tran Tri
Cong - Photos by Hoang Quang
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